Last year we had the dealer where we bought our RV close it for the season. We were charged $100. I understand this is relatively a simple procedure. We have a Class C and our son-in-law has a travel trailer. He is going to show us the procedure but my husband thinks the process is different. Is the closing relatively the same procedure?
My guess you are referring to "winterizing the RV"? #1 What I have done (and has always worked for me) is to close the 2 valves to the hot water heater & open the bypass, then pull the drain plug on the HW heater. #2 some rv's have a valve or you can buy a adapter at any RV parts store where you can let your RV fresh water pump flush the RV safe antifreeze through the trailer.... making sure the pink fluid comes out of all your faucets, toilet, low point drains, city water connection & exterior faucets if you have one. Hope this helps, Mike
To answer your question, yes, the winterizing procedures are essentially the same for both motorhomes and towables.
Thank you Dutch. QUOTE(Dutch_12078 @ Oct 26 2013, 10:30 AM) [snapback]35118[/snapback] To answer your question, yes, the winterizing procedures are essentially the same for both motorhomes and towables.
We have been seeing two different versions to close the rv....one is what Mike stated above and the other is to empty all water (of course), attach a compressor and blow out the lines then pour winterizer down each drain. This way you are not putting the winterizer through the lines. Any preference and why?
In blowing out the lines if you got everything out works fine, it is the "if" part that always rears its ugly head in the spring and you find those split lines, if you didn't get them blown out completely. Yes, when blowing them out and then adding anti freeze works well when done correctly. Some just find it as easy to buy 2-3-5 or so gallons of anti freeze and run it through the system to get into every line and fixture, including the drains. Both systems work, do the one you feel most comfortable doing. Hope this helps. I did have a friend ask me a few years ago how I winterized my rig, and I said I park it under a palm tree
Palm Tree sounds like a good solution to me. Thank you for your input. QUOTE(weighit @ Oct 30 2013, 10:37 PM) [snapback]35179[/snapback] In blowing out the lines if you got everything out works fine, it is the "if" part that always rears its ugly head in the spring and you find those split lines, if you didn't get them blown out completely. Yes, when blowing them out and then adding anti freeze works well when done correctly. Some just find it as easy to buy 2-3-5 or so gallons of anti freeze and run it through the system to get into every line and fixture, including the drains. Both systems work, do the one you feel most comfortable doing. Hope this helps. I did have a friend ask me a few years ago how I winterized my rig, and I said I park it under a palm tree
QUOTE(pkd31780 @ Oct 30 2013, 02:56 PM) [snapback]35173[/snapback] We have been seeing two different versions to close the rv....one is what Mike stated above and the other is to empty all water (of course), attach a compressor and blow out the lines then pour winterizer down each drain. This way you are not putting the winterizer through the lines. Any preference and why? My preference is based on mechanical law... ANY kind of potential energy will take the path of least resistance...meaning air (because it's lighter) would rather ride over the water in the rv lines because of less resistance. Second, what ever air pressure your putting into the rv lines what is coming out will ALWAYS be less because of friction loss. The only way to push out one column of water is with another column of water, thats why I just use my rv pump to flush the lines out. Mike
QUOTE(pkd31780 @ Oct 30 2013, 12:56 PM) [snapback]35173[/snapback] We have been seeing two different versions to close the rv....one is what Mike stated above and the other is to empty all water (of course), attach a compressor and blow out the lines then pour winterizer down each drain. This way you are not putting the winterizer through the lines. Any preference and why? I used to run the "pink stuff" through my water lines, and that works OK except there always seemed to be a bit of residual "taste" in the Spring when I began camping again. So I switched to blowing the lines out, and I found that to actually be a bit easier to do than using the "pink stuff", even though I had added a line to suck the pink stuff directly into my water pump rather than having to pour it into my fresh water tank. I've never had a problem with damage due to freezing using the blowout method, but I am always careful to run the water pump for about 10 seconds while still blowing compressed air into the line, so as to ensure the pump gets cleared of water also. And I always remove and drain by hand the little filter cup that is on the water pump, since that is a low point. Plus I always dump pink stuff into all the drain traps - you mustn't forget that just because you are using the blowout method. And you still have to drain the water out of the water heater. And if you don't own a decent air compressor, the "pink stuff" method is certainly cheaper than running out and buying a compressor.
